AliExpress Fake Brushes?!

It took me a long while to get into Aliexpress, but slowly and surely I was intrigued by the multitude of options available at unfathomable prices.

I know many people dislike buying from China and everyone is well within they're right to buy and not buy things according to their own beliefs. I can understand the concern many have about the at times shameless duping of everything and anything popular especially in regards to established or in recent times indie brands wares. Along with miserable labour laws and the maltreatment of the already disenfranchised. Yet, politics aside - many indie eye palettes and leading brand names are ironically made in China themselves. Double standards much?

If many brands feel comfortable enough with the conditions of a Chinese factor to put their new award-winning cult formula in the hands of a Chinese manufacturer, then why can't those same manufacturers create just as good products themselves? I'm not saying that corners are not cut and quality control can be an issue but, let's not pretend like China cannot make good wares all on their own.

Soapbox moment semi-over

Tonight I bring to you, some Nars brush dupes that are in fact dupes of traditional East Asain makeup tools - so who's really being duped here?

In semi-recent times there has been a lot of talk about the thin line between cultural appreciation/inspiration and cultural appropriation. I'm not going to get lost down that rabbit hole today (or any day in fact) but, I think this is where the lines have been drawn, perhaps crossed and then done triple backflips. If you think that this is a case of poor taste then I'd recommend you to watch this video right here and carry on watching (vanepwc). I think as consumers and people, in general, we owe it to ourselves to look beneath the surface, take off our rouge tinted glasses, step off that oh-so-high horse and perhaps if we're lucky, gain a fresh new perspective. Anyway ...

Here are some videos which show the tools Geisha's (+ those on their way to becoming a geisha) and Japanese theatre artists (Kabuki) have traditionally used: Maiko or Geisha painting her face, Beautiful Kyoto: Being a Maiko, How to Maiko Makeup, Japanese Kabuki Artist getting ready, Japanese Kabuki putting on Face Paint Part 1, 2 and 3.

Alirght here's the bit you want ...

The brushes: are they Good or Not?

White Yachiyo Brush and Fake Nars Ita Brush

I was really excited about the Yachiyo brush. Rae Morris mentioned purchasing them in her book(s) and she even notes that they're really cheap and plentiful in Asain countries. Since Rae Morris has her own brush line it's pretty cool *honest* that she would at least give us all the heads up to a much cheaper option to the brushes that her own line has taken heavy inspiration from ... Now, I'd like to say that I was really interested in trying the Ita brush for the Ita brush sake but, I couldn't help but smirk at the very impressive Nars imprint upon it. I could have bought an Ita brush without it but, what dupery would that be? My order arrived quickly and my initial impressions of the brushes were pretty good. This post is an overview after using them for a couple of months.

Yachiyo

In the beginning ...

Everything about this brush is aesthetically pleasing. The twisted wicker handle, the little red string and the leaf/tear shaped bristles. The brush is beautifully tapered and has a decent weight to it. I've used this brush to apply both powder and cream blusher along with face powder and highlighters. I find that it works well for most uses though I lean towards using this mainly for blusher. It diffuses colour nicely and can be used to give delicate or intense bursts or washes of colour on the face. In terms of softness - it is soft - but, if you stipple (dot colour or powder) onto the skin the goat hair bristles are prickly in feel and not the most comfortable. In terms of look and purpose, this brush is very similar to Real Techniques blush brush but, that brush is denser, softer and vegan-friendly. Hairs do come out every so often with these types of brushes but, it's not at a ridiculous or annoying rate. This brush is at its most vulnerable when wet so I'd suggest being delicate. The white end brushes makes it easier to know how much product has been picked up or not and if the brush is properly cleaned (or stained) which is a good trait to have. Since it's not so dense the washing process is relatively simple, and the drying time quick.

... nearing its end.

After being used several times the twisty bit fell apart and even though the brush ends retained a healthy level of white-beige sameness when being cleansed it did not last for long - soon they became slightly stained (a pink blush). So, how is it bearing up now? Well, currently, as of now, I no longer have this brush in my collection as more hair fell out and I decided to let it go. Ultimately, it's a nice soft brush that I actually enjoyed apply face powder with rather than blush (I like a denser brush to blend out colour). So yeah, I replaced it with another aliexpress brush that looks the same (white brush) but this time around has a "normal" wooden handle. I will add it *here* when I do a review for you.

Ita

Just as pretty as Yachiyo brush but the feel and look is entirely different. This brush handle is broad but slim and the bristles are incredibly soft. Even if you were to stipple with it, the bristles are not overly prickly on the skin or harsh. I've mainly used the ita brush to lightly contour with but it can apply both cream and powder products like blusher and face powder well. I find it a very easy, light brush to work with as it retains and dispurses colour in a uniform and gradual manner which gives a soft look, even with the most brutishly pigmented products. I think this stems from how the bristles are delicately pincered together with a firm but lose hold. Not sure if this is the reason but, I think this helps with both precision and the dispersion of pigment (to give a soft but uniform effect).

Nonetheless, this loose hold with the bristles means that hairs do frequently fall out of the brush. Once again it's not at an incredibly infuriating rate but, you'll definitely have to watch out for one or two stray hairs each time you use it. Compared to the Yachiyo and other brushes in my collection this is the worst offending brush for shedding.

However, Nars Ita brush has poor reviews for its shedding too (I think they make the review writings in black so you can't see it - highlight the text and all will be revealed). I paid much less for this brush than the £43 *eye fills with tears* Nars charges and believe me if it shed at the same rate I'd be distraught (forget disappointed) but, as it stands this brush was inexpensive so I guess I'm not overly invested in mauling over a few ~~split~~ fallen hairs.

Just like the yachiyo brush, ita needs to be delicately handled when cleaning as this is the time when more hairs will dispel. The brush is easy to spot clean and dries quickly due to the hairs being not that dense, slightly splayed and soft. The most comparable brush I have in my collection is an Ecco tools dupe for Becca The One Brush which is much larger and denser but the size, shape and its overall use/precision are different. Once again, this brush is said to be made from goat hair so it's not vegan-friendly and I'd say the Ecco tool brush is softer.

Currently, it's still in my collection and that maybe only down to the fact that I mainly only use this if I contour but I never do - but if I did - this would be the perfect brush for it. Although, I would have to watch my face closely for shed hairs.

Summed Up Thoughts

I like both brushes. Just because they are inexpensive it doesn't mean they're crappy or will get an automatic pass on their flaws just because of their cheapness. Sure I've been lenient with yahciyo's prickliness (+ wicker unwinding) and ita's shedding but, that's only because they deliver good results. Being that these brushes are my first brush with animal hair makeup tools, I can understand why makeup artists generally prefer animal hair brushes because the hairs tend to pick up and dispell colour with great precision. These brushes are apparently goat hair - I've never been up close enough to goats to smell them but, to me, the hairs smell like a cat. Now I'm not sure if cat hairs were used but I'm just throwing it out there in case anyone had allergies (wool and goat are mentioned in the description). Overall, I really enjoy these brushes. In the beginning, I was really set on Yachiyo but, ita's softness and multifunctionality currently take the lead as of now ... To answer the question if they're good or not? ... Well, the answer is yes they are.

Yachiyo price - £1.72

Ita price £1.92

Have you tried any similar brushes to yachiyo or ita?

What makes or breaks a brush for you? Does it have to be soft or just effective?

How many shed hairs are too many?

What's the best and worse brush in your collection?

Your comments are always welcome!